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Forcast 2013

2. Another calculator
http://www.degreedays.net/
Description: Fahrenheit-based cooling degree days for a base temperature of 50F
Source: www.degreedays.net (using temperature data from www.wunderground.com)
Accuracy: Estimates were made to account for missing data: the "% Estimated" column shows how much each figure was affected (0% is best, 100% is worst)
Station: University District, Seattle, WA (122.30W,47.65N)
Station ID: KWASEATT109

Month starting CDD % Estimated
2/1/2012 11 2
3/1/2012 10 0.1
4/1/2012 88 1
5/1/2012 178 0.3
6/1/2012 241 0.9
7/1/2012 424 0
8/1/2012 520 1
9/1/2012 348 0.6
10/1/2012 142 0
11/1/2012 38 0
12/1/2012 2 0
1/1/2013 1 0.1

Total annual = 2003

http://docsdrive.com/pdfs/ansinet/ijb/2011/209-215.pdf

List from The Evergreen State College
http://academic.evergreen.edu/projects/mushrooms/introm/index.htm

Mushroom Observer: Species List: Fungi, Lichen, and Slime Molds of Suburban and Urban Washington (143)
http://mushroomobserver.org/species_list/show_species_list/143?letter=H

To search for any mention of oyster in the Seattle area.
Location: "Seattle" OR "Shoreline" OR "Edmonds" OR "Lake Forest Park"
Content: "oyster"

2 years - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/2028127/fpart/2/vc/1
2 years in distilled water
5 years for prints, worked fine.
5 years for syringe, still viable, but less germination
5 months in distilled water/h2o2

Those are my longest saves. Of that, I see h2o2 as not being helpful. Just use water. The 5 months above was on something I was planning on using in a few days, but forgot about for months. Also, on the method in general, I've found it very hard to get mycelium off of agar without pulling up some of the agar as well. If you get any of the agar into the water, you are defeating the point. You need to leave all nutrients out of the water (this is why it won't work to store karo forever). I've found forceps to work better for collecting mycelium from agar than a syringe. Also, if your agar is in a jar, once it's completely colonized the myc often starts climbing the walls of the jar. Grab these pieces with the forceps. You won't be putting any nutrients in hte water, therefore ensuring the longest possible storage.

2.5 years - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/2028127/fpart/2/vc/1
2 and 1/2 years almost to the day, I was worried they were dead but they worked fine.

Decades? - http://www.shroomery.org/8509/Resurrecting-a-Better-Method-for-Long-Term-Storage-of-Mushroom-Cultures
M.D.Graham, "A Simple,Practical Method for Long Term Storage of Yeast", Brewing Techniques 5, March/April (1997), pp 58-62
A room temp method!
I came upon an article written by Michael D.Graham,a microbiologist at ATCC that described the storage of yeast in sterile distilled water. What a brilliant idea! If that method stores yeast, It should work well on gourmet mushroom cultures, too. It's easy to do, very space efficient, allows the cultures to be stored at room temperature, and maintains thier viability for years. I contacted the author, he indicated that edible fungi stores even better than yeast, and you can store the spores as well as the hyphae often for decades!

same topic - from Mycotopia Archive
Sterile water was first used to preserve cultures by Castellani in 1939 (2). Since then, many scientists have used this method; McGinnis et al. in 1974 (3) and Odds in 1991 (4) reported that they were able to maintain viable cultures for more than three years, without degradation.

This technique satisfies many different interests: Castellani's pathogenic fungi, Odds interest was in pathogenic yeast, and McGinnis' interest was in a wide range of fungi, yeast, and bacteria. The distilled water preserved all of them.

Storage Method:
Obtain dram vials from your laboratory supplier and fill them about half full (about 3mL) with distilled water, loosely cap the vials and sterilize them in a pressure cooker for 30 minutes @250 F. Half dram vials or test tubes with screw caps would also work well.

About six milliliters of sterile distilled water is pipetted aseptically into a freshly growing culture. The fragments of hyphae are dislodged by lightly scraping the aerial growth with the same pipette, and the resulting suspension is withdrawn and transferred to a sterile glass vial. Put plenty of inoculum into each vial to insure success. Screw the lid on tight and wrap Parafilm around the top of the vial to make sure it is airtight. When you come back in a few years, you would not want to find that the water had evaporated

Store the vials at room temperature away from direct sunlight. A bookshelf or wall cabinet is an excellent place. If conditions deteriorate, and the room should become unbearably hot, the vials can be refrigerated, but that is not normally necessary.

In the distilled water environment, the mushroom culture enters a dormant state, and it is held in stasis
.
The Rude Awakening:
Under aseptic conditions, simply dip a sterile loop into the vial, and streak the mycelia-rich water onto an agar plate. It will start to reanimate on being in a nutrient source and oxygen.

The first four methods keep cultures alive with three items: food, water, and oxygen. If they lack any of these, It's goodbye.

Instead of trying to keep them alive, there is a better way: In sterile distilled water, with no food, oxygen, or minerals. This method was in use almost 60 years ago, but was apparently lost due to lack of communication.

References
(1) M.D.Graham, "A Simple,Practical Method for Long Term Storage of Yeast", Brewing Techniques 5, March/April (1997), pp 58-62
(2) S.Castellani,"Viability of Some Pathogenic Fungi in Distilled Water", Journal of Tropical Medicine and Hygiene 42, pp 225-226 (1939)
(3) M.R.McGinnis,A.A.Padhye,and L. Ajello,"Storage of Stock Cultures of Filamentous Fungi,Yeasts, and Some Aerobic Actinomycetes in Sterile Distilled Water", Applied Microbiology 28, pp 218-222 (1974)
(4) F.C.Odds, "Long Term Laboratory Preservation of Pathogenic Yeast in Water",Journal of Medical and Veterinary Mycology 29, pp 413-415(1991)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/thedarksideoftheshroom/sets/

http://mushroom-collecting.com/index.html - useful tips on how to cook wild mushrooms for species not normally recommended for eating

3 years - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/8712029/an/0/page/0
Get the dried mushrooms. Chop into pieces, and wash them in three to four changes of 1% peroxide, per Tissue Resurrection RR Method (http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/10291084).
Float the tissue sample in sealed jars of distilled water. Let it soak for 4 to 6 weeks.
Transfer the ones that show mycellium growth to agar to clean of mold.

"You can get a clean enough print to use, here's how. Get a piece of hardware cloth and suspend it 1" above the foil or paper you're going to print to. Place the cap on the hardware cloth and allow it to drop spores for a couple of hours until you can just see the spores on the print. Remove the cap and use the print. Do the above in a glovebox or tupperware container. Don't allow the cap to come in contact with the printing paper or foil at any time. If the cap is especially dirty, wash the top side of it with iodine, but be careful not to let any get on the gills."

"I've found that trich on wood based substrates is more of a surface phenomena that can be easily removed. I use a q-tip dipped in salt paste. Gently twist the q-tip to remove the green spores first, using more than one q-tip if necessary. Once everything you can see is removed, get a fresh q-tip dipped in the salt paste and vigorously rub the area about double the size of the trich. This changes the Ph so drastically, it shocks the trichodema into not recovering. It only takes a few drops of water to turn 1/4 of a shotglass of salt into a good paste that sticks, but doesn't run."

Odor: Coconut
Lactarius glyciosmus - Coconut Milkcap
Lactarius glyciosmus is a drab little mushroom, but two things make it pretty easy to identify: it is mycorrhizal with birch and alder, and it smells like coconuts. NAME ORIGIN means 'sweet-smelling'. Edible.

Odor: Curry
Lactarius camphoratus - Curry Milkcap
ODOR fragrant in both fresh and dried condition, (Hesler), mild at first, but as it ages and dries or when cooked strongly of curry powder, (Phillips), like fenugreek when dried (Schalkwijk-Barendsen), curry, burnt sugar or chicory (like aquifluus), (Kibby). Can be used dried as a seasoning (Phillips). Dried and powdered it is used in Germany as a flavoring.

Odor: Almonds
Marasmius oreades - Fairy Ring Mushroom
ODOR agreeable (Arora), of cyanide or chlorine, (Desjardin), pleasant to almondlike (Phillips). TASTE mild (Desjardin), pleasant (Phillips). EDIBILITY delicious, discard stems, but make sure it is not Clitocybe dealbata (see similar), (Arora), adverse reactions in individuals have been recorded (Phillips). HABITAT gregarious in grass, usually in arcs or fairy rings, (Arora), scattered to gregarious in grassy areas, often growing in fairy rings in lawns, (Desjardin).

Odor: Sage
Hygrophorus eburneus - Ivory Wax-cap
ODOR mild (Arora, Hesler), faint but pleasant (Phillips), strong sage odor which lingers on the fingers (Lincoff(1)). TASTE mild (Hesler), mild but pleasant (Phillips), sage (Lincoff(1)). EDIBILITY yes (Arora). HABITAT scattered to gregarious or tufted on ground under hardwoods or conifers, (Arora), on soil, mostly in coniferous woods, thickets, and grassy areas, (Hesler).

Odor: Orange, fruity
Clitocybe nuda - Blewit
ODOR faintly fragrant when fresh (like frozen orange juice), (Arora), pleasant, faintly fragrant, (Bigelow). EDIBILITY yes, popular, (Arora), slightly poisonous raw, (Lincoff(1)). HABITAT "scattered to gregarious, often in rings or arcs - in woods, brush, gardens, compost piles, i.e., wherever there is organic debris", (Arora), solitary, gregarious or cespitose (tufted), in humus under hardwoods, under conifers, on decaying vegetable matter or near trash piles and compost heaps, in meadows, on lawns, in orchards, (Bigelow).

Odor: Watermelon rind or cucumber
Polyporus squamosus - Dryad's saddle
http://mushroom-collecting.com/mushroomdryad.html
The aroma is very distinctive smelling much like watermelon rind. When spring comes around and I can't find morels, I am always glad to find some dryad's saddle to take home. It has been much maligned as an edible of little value but I beg to differ. It is all about understanding how to pick and cook it. These grow on various very dead hardwoods (especially elm) mostly in May or June but occasionally later. A tree lying on the ground is your best bet. Occasionally the may be on a living tree but they seem to prefer very dead wood. Wet areas seem to produce more. These are quite common and one of only a few decent edibles you will find at this time of year. It is nice to find when morel hunting is frustrating. These will be found in the same places each year until the wood is consumed. These have been called just edible by some and poor by others. They can be quite good though. My rules are that they need to be young, the pore layer needs to be very thin (1/16 in. or less is likely to be good), and most importantly your knife needs to be able to pass through it very easily. Whatever the knife cuts easily is likely to be good. Sometimes just the outer edges are usable but nice tender ones can be found.
Tempura frying will retain some of this "watermelon" character. Sautéing or pan frying is a good way too. Slice them thin and cook them hard and fast. Overcooking will create toughness. I have tried drying them. They come out as very white, crunchy chips that are pleasant to eat dry. They retained more of that unique smell than I expected. I have made a powder with them but have not tried cooking with it yet but it looks and smells good. The microwave produced something you could make shoes with. I have had pretty good luck with tough ones though. I cooked them and put them in the blender with chicken stock blending until they were the consistency of a smoothie and then made mushroom soup. Really very good and not like any other. Nothing else tastes or smells like this mushroom. It is really very good when prepared correctly. I could easily identify it by the smell with my eyes closed.
Reported near Portland. More common in the NE US.

Odor: Apricots
Polyporus alveolaris - Yellow-Gilled Russula
Russula claroflava - Yellow Swamp Russula
…has a mild taste with an apricot-like odor

Odor: Crushed geraniums
Russula pelargonia - no common name
- from http://mushroomhobby.com/Gallery/Russula/Russula%20pelargonia/index.htm
This is one of the most distinctive Russula species on the basis of its strong and peculiar odor of geranium flowers.

Odor: Fruity (faint)
Russula olivacea - no common name
- from http://www.mushroomslook.com/p/228/russula-olivacea
Taste is hazelnut. Note that Russula emetica also has a fruity odor but tastes very hot and bitter and has a red cap. Russula fragilis also smells fruit and tastes very acrid.

Odor: Danish Butter Cookies
Agaricus augustus - The Prince
http://mushroomobserver.org/56082?q=uywI
Smells like the Danish butter cookies that come in the blue tins!
Wikipedia says "The mushroom's odour is strong and nutty, of anise or almonds, which can be associated with the presence of benzaldehyde and benzyl alcohol. Its taste has been described as not distinctive."
http://mushroomobserver.org/114154?q=uz81
Smelled of anise.

Odor:Tomato leaves
Clitocybe candicans
http://mushroomobserver.org/89023

Odor:Iris
Clitocybe irina
http://www.wildmanstevebrill.com/Mushrooms.Folder/Iris-scented%20Clitocybe.html

PSMS offers identification of your wild mushrooms in the Glass Atrium at the Center for Urban Horticulture. One or more of our identifiers will be there to tell you the name of your wild mushroom collections, and answer your mushroom-related questions.

When: Mondays from 4 - 7pm during the spring and fall wild mushroom seasons
Where: Center for Urban Horticulture (CUH), 3501 NE 41st Street, Seattle

The spring ID clinics usually start in mid-April (or earlier depending on the weather) and continue until the end of the spring mushroom season. The fall ID clinics usually start in late September (or when the fall rains start in the Pacific Northwest.)

At the same location and time, the Master Gardeners hold a plant identification and plant disease identification session. You may also bring plants for consultation.

For more information and to sign up to help with the wild mushroom ID clinics, contact gro.smsp|di#gro.smsp|di or call Hildegard at (206) 523-2892.

Oven Bag Cloning
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/6590986

DIY Spawn Bag with Tyvek Patch
http://www.shroomology.com/topic/256-diy-pc-spawn-bags/

Honey Liquid Culture (LC)
http://www.shroomology.com/topic/47-honey-lc/

Making LC jars with one RTV port
http://www.shroomology.com/topic/63-beyonds-cheapeasy-lc-lids/

Making LC jars with one RTV port and one vent
http://www.shroomology.com/topic/6-how-to-grow-mushrooms-shrooms-in-bulk-for-beginners/

Vacuum release for LC jar with only one RTV port
http://i46.tinypic.com/5b8hdu.jpg

Using syringes again - Cleaning TEK
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/12098357/fpart/1/vc/1

Oyster Tek using grain spawn and bleached newspaper in plastic grocery bags
https://mycotopia.net/forums/oyster-mushrooms/19704-cultivating-oyster-mushrooms-newspaper.html
He uses bleach. And if you're concerned with using bleach for cleaning of the paper, you can always pasteurize the paper for 2 hours @ 150-165 degrees.

Oyster mushrooms on nothing but carboard in a laundry basket.
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/10322837

Agar TEK using non-idonized salt to inhibit bacteria and mold - also bring dried mushrooms back to life
https://mycotopia.net/forums/agar-strain-isolation/20398-using-non-iodized-salt-culturing-antiseptic.html

Inject salted agar into ziploc baggie as a cheap, flat alternative to test tubes for long term storage
https://mycotopia.net/forums/fungi-all-edible-medicinal-other-mushrooms/22425-saving-strains-baggie-culture.html

Mycelium from dried mushrooms
Morels - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/9681720
King Oyster - https://mycotopia.net/forums/agar-strain-isolation/20398-using-non-iodized-salt-culturing-antiseptic.html

Salicylic Acid and Popcorn
https://mycotopia.net/forums/sterilization/21494-antibacterial-grain-soak-experiment.html

Simple Popcorn
http://www.mushroomgeeks.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38710

Log TEK using hand tools and candle wax
http://jessietierney.com/blog/mushroom-logs-and-plug-spawn/

Video- sprouting spores on agar, transfer wedge to grain.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-hW4f6LM3M&feature=related
A pressure cooker tip - place grain jars on rag so they don't touch the bottom heat directly.

Everything you ever wanted to know about long term storage of cultures
http://128.104.77.228/documnts/pdf2004/fpl_2004_nakasone001.pdf

Agar Sandwich TEK to separate out bacteria
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/2894662

Shiitake on phonebook TEK
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/9733492#9733492
I cut a few squares the size of a deck of cards out of thick phonebooks and stuff these with grain spawn or pf cakes. Drill 1/4" holes all over the book because this gives the mycelium a path to crawl. Get the book nice and wet, wring the excess out, and either pasteurize or sterilize in a PC, your choice, and then when cool inoculate. Keep wrapped up until full colonization and then fruit. You can pasteurize old phone-books and newspapers by placing in a pot of water and heating to 140F to 160F (60C to 70C) for one hour. I don't use bleach or lime when pasteurizing paper.

You'll rarely find 'teks' for edibles. People write those for growing cubes for noobs to use, but by the time you move to edibles, you're more experienced and able to wing it.

Growing in 2 liter bottle with Popcorn and Casing - shake layers once spawn runs
https://mycotopia.net/forums/popcorn-teks/11576-buckaroo-bulk-nugget-tek-invitro-spawn-bags-%BD-gallon-jars.html#post_message_390672

Growing oysters in 2 liter bottles - some photos
https://mycotopia.net/forums/edible-medicinal-mushrooms/28307-oysters-serious-try-3.html

Faht's Collection of TEKs
https://mycotopia.net/forums/misc-magic-mushroom-growing-teks/17084-fahts-teks-index.html

Myco-Tek Collection of TEKs
https://myco-tek.org/forumdisplay.php?10-MYCO-TEKS

Fungi Forum TEKs
http://www.fungiforum.com/index.php?showforum=2

ShroomTalk Edible Forum
http://www.shroomtalk.com/forum/index.php?/forum/139-edibles/

Growing Mushrooms the Easy Way TEKs
http://growmushroomstheeasyway.webs.com/apps/forums/

Edible Mushroom Forum
http://www.ediblemushroom.net/

Bemushroomed Forum
http://www.bemushroomed.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=entrypage&defaultmenu=41&Itemid=40

According to the article, in Korea, the main diseases with oyster mushrooms are green mold caused by Trichoderma, black-gray velvet caused by Trichrus spiralis, fire mold caused by Neurospora sp., brown spot of Pseudomonas tolaassi, and virus in Korea (Kim et al., 1995,2000). Trichoderma cf. virens (70.8%), T. longibrachiatum (16.7%) and T. harzianum (12.5%). T. longibrachiatum and T. harzianum were mainly isolated from sawdust based substrate and T. cf. virens was isolated from the rice straw and cotton waste substrates

from https://mycotopia.net/forums/contamination-pests-bugs/16629-spore-germination-peroxide.html

This half pint jar appears to show many germinating spores in pure 3% peroxide after two weeks of soaking. The jar was simply washed and dried, then filled halfway with peroxide. A fresh whole mushroom was dropped in and just sat there for two weeks. After a few days i added a tiny amount of Karo straight from the bottle to encourage clone type growth. I was hoping to maybe see some mycelium eventually grow from the shroom itself once the peroxide had neutralized , i never expected to see spores germinate though. The shroom itself is still well preserved with no sign of any new growth. So i'm gonna inject this solution into some spawn jars and find out whats up. Hopefully any contam has been killed by the prolonged contact with the H2o2.

Just took a sample of solution and scoped it out 60x…..It's def mycelium. Under the scope there were thousands of tiny threads of mycelium.

Another guy used no karo just straight h2o2. if you look at the photo of the inner stem in the peroxide you can tell it was ready to GO. Like i said earlier, not very sterile conditions while i transfered the inner tissue.

Here's an update on the progress of that peroxidated mushroom that released it's spores, then germinated in solution. The growing spores were sucked up in a syringe and injected into three quart jars of shakable cake. After 6 days ,new growth is now visible in several spots in all jars, but appears that only a small fraction of the injected material survived transfer. No contamination is visible so far.

In the follow up test - Using a spore print in pure peroxide [3%] we are at day five. I'm thinking now, that Bobcat's idea maybe correct - in that tiny fragments of the shroom are broken off through the oxidizing proccess and growing out on the jar bottom…The spore only jar is now at day 20 with no sign of life.

I had an Agaricus tray which developed a patch of trich mold , so i took a small clump of still healthy myc and dropped in a peroxide jar for 8 hours , then transfered to a spawn jar for re-growing. 3 days later the whole jar is exploding with mycelium.. so I'm pretty stoked about that. The idea that u can save a contam'd tray by reverting back to spawn is pretty exciting to me because it's so easy ..Once again though - it's too early in the game to say it's def gonna work.

Also In the other experiment , dried frozen mush dropped in peroxide for just 8 hours ,then transfered to shakable cake spawn jars - is now showing numerous points of growth at day 3.

2. Brick Cap [aka Kuritake - the Chestnut Mushroom] (Hypholoma sublateritium) - spore print from Sam
My plan is to germinate the spores in liquid culture, then inoculate cardboard, then grow outside on wood chips.

Tek1 - from Shroomery http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/11622435#11622435
Have cloned kuritake, wine caps and shaggy manes to cardboard.

Tk2 - from Bobcat at Mycotopia https://mycotopia.net/forums/wild-mushrooming-field-forest/16226-naematoloma-%3D-hypholoma-sublateritium-kuri-take-chestnut-mushroom-%5Bmerged%5D.html
My outdoor patches were experimental, but both successful. The patches were inoculated with spent blocks from indoor cultivation. One was made of very old and degraded wood that was in a landscaping bed. We're talking a decade or more of aging. The wood was poplar and it was chunked by a tree service. Last year it fruited heavy after about 4 months of running. This year just a few. The other outdoor bed was hardwood mulch like you buy in 3 cu. ft. bags at Lowes. They fruited heavy last and this year. I expect a quick decline, though, because mushies seem to burn through that stuff pretty quick. I'll have to print them up next year.
also
Stamets: Substrates for Fruiting: Supplemented alder, chestnut, poplar, hickory, cottonwood or oak sawdust,logs and stumps. Chestnut, oak or similar logs are inoculated with sawdust or plug spawn and partially buried parallel to one another in a shady, moist location. It can be grown indoors on blocks of sterilized sawdust. Once these blocks cease production, they can be buried outside for additional fruiting. Another alternative is that the expired fruiting blocks can be broken apart and the resident mycelium can be used as sawdust spawn for implantation into stumps and logs.

Snipped from various sources…
Great clusters of this species are often found on dead hardwoods, especially stumps, logs, and soils rich in wood debris. Another excellent candidate for recycling stumps. It comes up on the same log or stump year after year, until it's used up all the nutrients, so if you miss it one year, you'll probably snag it the following year. No matter what you call them they are better than what is classified in many mushroom guides. Several rate them a 'Good' edible. My opinion is 'Very Good'. A nice mushroom taste and a nice crunchy texture. Nutty flavor. Caps sometimes can get 4 inches or a bit bigger. However, you don't want the larger caps if you are collecting these to eat. It's the dinky little ones up to an 1 1/2 inches or smaller that make the best eating. I like to gather these after the leaves start to really start come down, generally after we have had a frost. At that time you will find hardly any bugs, just an occasional slug/snail. Hypholomas thrive in cold weather and do not produce when temperatures exceed 60-65 F. Kuritake has a nutty flavor and pairs well with red wines.

A related species preferring pine: Hypholoma capnoides (also called Naematoloma capnoides) fruits in clusters on pine stumps and decaying pine wood.

3. Oyster [unknown type] (probably Pleurotus ostreatus, i.e. Pearl Oyster) - fresh from Ranch 99 Market
My plan is to run mycelium on cardboard, then inoculate dowel pins and put into birch logs. Another idea is to chips fruit tree, birch or chestnut twigs and combine with wild bird seed or other substrate in a bag for inside growing.

Carboard Teks - from Shroomery, for growing oysters on cardboard.
A. One thing you can try is boiling the dry cardboard with organic flax meal for an hour covered in the same kind of pot you use to sterilize jars. Make sure the water level is sufficient. Cardboard gets picked on a lot in this forum, but I like it. It's easy as hell to find a lot of for free. And with the flax I think it's a great start for running mycelium. As far as how much flax I don't really measure, i just sprinkle maybe a half a cup in there. It depends on how many pieces of cardboard and how big a pot you have.

B. I've been having success with using cardboard layered with spawn and pasteurized compost or worm castings. A mushroom lasagne, if you will.

C. One layer of cardboard on top of one layer of watery bran. I just scattered the inoculated rye grain randomly and it seems to being going well so far. Picture of grey oysters using this technique: http://www.flickr.com/photos/69266480@N05/7087966781/in/photostream

D. This is a good one: http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5254584
i have some cardboard agar going now, cut a circle of cardboard out the diameter of the jar i was using, softened it up with some warm water, strained most of the water off and placed in it.. i dropped a few drops of spore solution and got some white fuzz starting but not much yet. in stamets new book mycelium running he shows a picture of taking a spore print from a wild mushroom onto this moistened cardboard, and just letting it grow… should work fine. i have some woodlovers colonizing cardboard right now, tearing right threw it.. i inoculated that with agar wedges, i had an agar plate that grew out maybe 3/4 of the way, then contam'd along the edges.. in my kitchen, with no sterility at all, i cut out wedges using a unsterilized butter knife, and placed a wedge each onto 3"x3" squares of moistened cardboard.. all colonized completely, one showed some greenmold growth on the edges of where the agar was, but the growth stopped.. i have since put these 3x3 squares, now fully colonized, into pieces of cardboard maybe 10x20", this time i layered them inbetween, one layer of cardboard, then a colonized piece, then another layer of cardboard, then another colonized piece. my first experiments have been going great… i first moistened the cardboard w/ cold water and that worked fine, i read in mycelium running after that he used warm water and that helped soften up the cardboard so you could peel away to get into the corrugated part(IT IS VERY IMPORTANT(i guess) TO USE CORRUGATED CARDBOARD).

E. Plain carboard sorta worried me with spore germination. So, I used potato water from some I boiled up to eat to add to the sterilization process. I simply cut carboard disks by tracing the bottom of petris and then added the disks to the potato water with a drop of Karo as well. I put this stuff in a microwavable container with a polyfill plug stuck into the lid so the container can breath during the micro run. Just let the simmer for a minute and that's plenty. Inoculate in a gloove box and go. You'll have to load the sterilized disks into the petris with sterile tweezers. It sounds like a pain, but it's simple.

F. Oysters on cardboard and straw in a laundry basket - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/3200510

G. Oysters on nothing but cardboard in a laundry basket! - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/10322837
H. Oysters growing on yellow pages phone book - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/10217114

4. Wood Ear (Auricularia polytricha) - fresh from Ranch 99 Market
My plan is to run mycelium on cardboard, then figure out how to grow beyond that.

Tek1 - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/15470954#15470954
I inoculated the jar with a spore syringe. (I ripped up pieces of wood ear and let them soak in 1cc distilled water for a few hours). Since I have very limited experience growing I shot almost the entire 1cc of water and spores into my grain jar. As a result, I have not been able to shake the pieces freely. I thought I might grow some mold because of the extra water, but so far it seems to be contamination free.

Tek2 - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/11647469
You need to find some big wood ears that have a thick part of the fruiting body that is attached to the log it's growing from.
You then (using a sterile scapel) cut a small chunk of the jelly stuff out of part that was attached to the wood, try not to get the outside edge.
I suggest then putting this chunk onto some prepared hydrogen peroxide/yeast/dextrose agar petri dishes.
Then in a couple of days you should see growth and remember wood ear mycelium has little globules of black liquid scattered around (it's not contams!)
hope this helps

Also: The method of cultivation closely parallels that of Shiitake

5. Brown Beech (Hypsizygus tessellatus) - fresh from Ranch 99 Market
My plan is to run mycelium on cardboard, then figure out how to grow beyond that.

6. Nameko - (Pholiota nameko) - plug spawn from Mushroom Mountain
My plan is to place these plugs into pine logs that have been aging for a year. I made a log raft.

When I open the bag, I will set some of these aside to run mycelium on cardboard.

7. Shiitake (Lentinula edodes), cold strain - plug spawn from Mushroom Mountain
My plan is to place these plugs into freshly cut birch logs.

Tek: 19 day fruiting on oatmeal
Sterilized Oatmeal only…..no wood. Because the mycelium is designed
to go through thick hard oak, it really takes the oatmeal very fast.
Then, the mycelium forms a hard coating around the clump. Once this
happens, they can be moved around almost like oak logs…"
found here: https://mycotopia.net/forums/edible-medicinal-mushrooms/5673-shiitake-merged.html
"Home growers should use quart canning
jars for sterile chambers. Add 2/3 cup of oatmeal, and 1 1/3 cups
distilled water into the jar. Place sealing edges up so that jars will
not seal (this rubber seal must be up and not against the jar). Leave
the screw band loose so that jar will not seal. You do not want the jar
to seal…..if it does, it will explode inside the pressure cooker when
it is sterilized. Set pressure at 15-20 lbs and cook for 40-45 minutes.
The jars are then taken out and placed in a sterile area where they are
left to cool. The cooling area must be sterile or the air that will be
pulled back into the jar as it cools will be loaded with contaminants.
This will cause for sure failure. After the jars have cooled, they are
inoculated, and held at 72F. Filtered natural light is given daily.
This method can produce fruit within 19 days."
found here: http://www.ibiblio.org/intergarden/permaculture/mailarchives/ag+pc-1993-1994/msg00277.html

When I open the bag, I will set some of these aside to run mycelium on cardboard.

8. Tiger Sawgill (Lentinus tigrinus)- liquid culture from Grow Mushrooms At Home
may purchase on ebay

Tek1 - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/8616897
the substrate is whole cooked brown rice

Tek2 - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/8989786
On phone book!

Tek3 - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/8743414
will colonize quart jar in 3 days!

9. Golden Oyster (Pleurotus citrinopileatus) - liquid culture from Grow Mushrooms At Home
may purchase on ebay
My plan is to expand the liquid culture in a pint jar, then inoculate WBS+Hardwood shavings, then grow as I do with other oysters. see above.

10. Enoki (Flammulina velutipes) - liquid culture from Grow Mushrooms At Home
My plan is to expand the liquid culture in a pint jar, then inoculate WBS+Hardwood shavings.
may purchase on ebay
Tek1 from Mycotopia https://mycotopia.net/forums/edible-medicinal-mushrooms/16352-enoki-pf-tek.html
I've got these fruiting right now… in the fridge, in the dark.
1/8 pint WBS spawned to 1/8 pint pasteurized Bradford Pear shavings (chainsaw). Was just seeing if these shavings would work- they were fresh, and I wasnt sure if they had to age or not… Incubated at room temp-inside a ziplock bag w/ a few pinholes, once 100% colonized, they were tossed in the salad crisper… not sure if 1/4pint of substrate is enough to get mature fruits…but the pins are cute! Your fruits seem thick and short- are you fruiting in light? I think dark+CO2= long thin fruits. Im going to make some more WBS spawn and try to colonize some Snaple bottles filled w/ these shavings.

Tek2, same source
Standard PF Tek except the brf has been swapped for hulled millet.

Quart-jars filled halfway or so, fruited from/in the jar, will give ya mor of the skinnys

Snipped from various sources…
Fruiting on the sides of dead elm or willow. I harvest almost of mine off of dead elm trees that are standing.
Also known as the "Winter Mushroom for obvious reasons, this one can be found in Winter if we have a thaw. I've found it in January and throughtout the year. While Winter is here and nothing else is fruiting, the velvetfoot offers up a nice harvest for the mushroom hunter that is careful.
Enoki gets really tough and stringy when cooked for more than a few minutes- like Bobcat said, throw them into the dish towards the end. mmmm enoki

11. Phiolota squarroides - Scaly Phiolota
a kit http://www.mycoboutique.ca/en/shop/grow-your-own/indoor-cultivation/443/scaly-pholiota-mushroom-culture-kit#.UMgzehzfLfl
I found wild ones 12/9/2012 at Hillwood Park in an alder stump

12. Late Fall Oyster
I found wild ones 12/8/2012 on an alder log in Yost Park
I parboiled it 10 minutes, then sauteed in olive oil - excellent 12/11/2012

Walnut - Lion's mane can handle cherry and other super dense hardwoods like walnut.
- from http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/9807216 (sounds like speculating)

Apple - Morel
- from http://mushroomobserver.org/21010
Dave from NE PA
My own experience with orchard morels is that during some good years a few come out around healthy-looking apple trees. When the tree dies, larger numbers of larger morels fruit nearby the same tree; even if morel friendly weather conditions are marginal. To me this suggests that the morchella organism has been coexisting with the live apple tree. When the tree dies, the fungus then taps whatever nutrition is available in the dying roots. Orchard morels in my area do not spread to nearby morel friendly environments. One orchard I hunt is full of White Ash and Yellow Poplar, but morels appear only by the apple trees. When a tree has been dead for 4 years and there are no other apple trees nearby, no more morels appear in that area.

Apple - possibly Russula species
http://forum.terrorchid.org/viewtopic.php?p=9471
"nigritellanigra.
Location: Bila Tserkva, Ukraine
I wonder if it is possible to cultivate Russula just like itself. In the Ukraine I do cultivate a few mushroom species, which we eat. I must say, that for a few species I did use an old apple tree to thrive on in our fruitgarden of our Dacha. However the spores I did get from mushrooms from pineforests."

Apple - Pleurotus dryinus (Veiled Oyster)
Grows on living trees.
-from http://mushroomobserver.org/81264?q=uzqV
The presence of a veil as well as it’s occurring singly on a living tree is consistent my understanding of this species. In northern California I have most often seen it growing on Madrone trees, but I expect it’s pretty opportunistic.

Elm - Enoki fruiting on the sides of dead elm or willow. I harvest almost of mine off of dead elm trees that are standing.
- from https://mycotopia.net/forums/edible-medicinal-mushrooms/16352-enoki-pf-tek.html

Willow - Enoki fruiting on the sides of dead elm or willow. I harvest almost of mine off of dead elm trees that are standing.
- from https://mycotopia.net/forums/edible-medicinal-mushrooms/16352-enoki-pf-tek.html

Pear - Enoki growing on mix of wild bird seed and Bradford Pear shavings.
- from https://mycotopia.net/forums/edible-medicinal-mushrooms/16352-enoki-pf-tek.html

Madrona - Leccinum manzanitae, commonly known as the manzanita bolete for its usual mycorrhizal association with manzanita trees. Its fruit bodies grow singly to scattered in soil under madrone and manzanita.
- from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leccinum_manzanitae

Maple - Morchella esculenta (Yellow Morel)
Upper canopy is mostly Doug fir but these vine maples beneath in the lower canopy seem to be a desirable environment for this particular Morchella strain. In Eastern Washington we find Morchella esculenta in true pine canopies associated with small maple saplings in the lower forest floor as well.
- from http://mushroomobserver.org/65873?q=smLv

Around recently poured cement (not a tree!) - Morchella esculenta (Yellow Morel)
Lots of construction from last year on this road prompted these ascomycetes to float on the scene- all it took was a good 10 degree temp boost and some lamp posts for added nightly heat I think :) Found beneath lamp posts for three city blocks in gravel.
- from http://mushroomobserver.org/65873?q=smLv

Bamboo - http://www.crazyaboutmushrooms.com/cultivation_services.html
Not growing on live bamboo, but bamboo waste chopped with hay works well as a substrate for oyster mushrooms.

Cypress - https://mycotopia.net/forums/fungi-all-edible-medicinal-other-mushrooms/96791-pleurotus-ostreatus-misc-conifer-grow-log.html
Pearl oyster on oat grain inoculate bleach soaked Cypress chips and green matter in poly bags. Growth is rapid. Cypress variety is Leylandii .

Pine Needle Duff - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17424492
"In my experience, lepista nuda (Blewit Mushrooms) love thick blankets of pine needles, so if you have any pines around that drop their needles and don't get raked clean just pour/spray it (a slurry of fermented stem butts and molasses) all over the duff."

Apple - Armillaria mellea (honey fungus)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bramley_apple
The original Bramley Seedling Apple tree is suffering old age and is under attack by honey fungus.

I also noticed that after a month in the cloning machine, some kind of bad fungus or other organism is rotting the plant tissue in the air layer just described. Maybe I could spray this tissue periodically with peroxide to control this.